12/29/2023 0 Comments John deere 1010 dozer problems![]() come to find out this guy was filming as he was TRYING to rebuild his pump & put it out there for the WORLD to see !!!!! I had to write him & tell him what he was doing wrong & how to do it right & he actually mentions me in several of his "series". REALLY I thought someone had put it up as a "spoof". I did watch one & "thought" it was a joke. I haven't watched any "videos" on a roosa master rebuild online so I cant comment on those either. G kit, metering valve, mv shim, delivery valve, dv spring, pilot tube, front mounting oring, transfer pump liner, tp blades, standard or oversize?., return connector, pivot shaft if worn. There are about $160.00 on up, worth of parts that need to be changed in a proper rebuild. You can get around the Bristol wrench by using a T-45 torx bit. I see some people use US Diesel? I deal w/ the factory so I cant tell you anything about USD. IF buying online, MAKE SURE they ship up North. There is no BEST PLACE to get the parts, other than online or your local fuel shop. I THINK you should "bow-out" of this project. BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN if you don't know what your doing. I THINK you may be MILES AHEAD if you let someone else do it. HELPING implies, you might know what your doing. No pointers so far with the issues at hand so I am going to proceed as planned.This is going to sound "harsh" but its just a dose of reality. It is helpfull to dicuss these matters with others who have more experience, prior to the start of work. Would be foolish to have it tore down this far and be so lazy as not to replace these items. I have replaced the housing and am replacing all of the seals and gaskets as I reassemble the steering cluthe/final drive assemblies. After tear down I discovered that the right side clutch housing had been cracked and repaired. The right side clutch was froze when purchased. No signifigant gear, shaft or bearing wear. The good side is that all of the internal components are at or close to factory specs. ![]() The under carriage has required extensive repair/replacement of parts and pieces. I don't belive it was ever worked too hard, but nor did it see the grease gun enough. The John Deere 1010C is equipped with one of two engines: a 1.9 L (115.5 cu·in) four-cylinder gasoline engine or a 2.4 L (144. The crawler I have was an one farm tractor. I am about a year behind on my project also, but would rather take my time than rush and make big mistakes. Lavoy, are going to the Gathering in March? We missed ya in '06!! Soon I will be getting a shopping list together and give Lavoy a shout. The bull gear doesn't look to bad, but the pinion gear has gone bye bye. But I wish I knew what the spec is regarding this diameter tolerance. It is scored, but I believe there is still about 75% of the original (ground) bearing surface so I'm guessing that is enough surface to reuse as is. The problem I'm having is trying to determine the amount of damage that has been done generally and more specifically the surface on the shaft where the bearing rides. ![]() What a mess!! I knew the left side had problems when I bought this machine three years ago last May (ya can't rush into these things) because the sprocket was about 10 degrees out of plumb in addition to the engine being stuck. The bearing on mine did not have to be removed, I just had to pick out all the pieces of what use to be the bearing. Loader and scarfier are removed and now I have removed the final drive housing and have pulled the flanged axle shaft. Deere 45 combine engines: 145 Power Unit. 180 Power Unit is not a 1010/2010 type engine. H is Harvester Works, T is Dubuque, G is gasoline and L is LP gas. I am about at the same stage of disassembly as you are. The 145, 155, and 165 will replace a 1010 engine regardless if a 115 gas or a 145 diesel.
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